Situated near the small village of Tampaksiring, at the foot of a lush tropical valley, is the ancient temple of Candi Tebung Gunung Kawi. Built during the 11th century on the banks of the Pakerisan River, Gunung Kawi comprises ten, awe-inspiring Candi’s, or shrines, carved into the solid cliff faces. Five Candi’s are located on the eastern bank of the Pakerisan River. Four Candi’s are located on the western bank, while the final tenth Candi is situated independently of the others.
A Brief History Of Candi Tebing Gunung Kawi
There are several theories as to the history of Gunung Kawi, and we don’t attest to knowing which is accurate. The most widely held theory is that the temple was built in the late eleventh century by King Anak Wungsu of the Uduyanu dynasty. The Candi’s on the east bank are dedicated to King Uduyanu, his Queen, and his sons, including King Anak Wungsu. The western bank Candi’s are understood to be shrines to Anak Wungsu’s concubines. A number of smaller caves have been built into the sides of cliffs around the temple, which are believed to be meditation caves for the Buddhist monks.
How To Get To Candi Tebing Gunung Kawi
Candi Tebing Gunung Kawi is located in the small village of Tampaksiring in the Gianyar region of Bali. Situated north-east of Ubud, it will take around 25 minutes to get here from the centre of Ubud or about 60-75 minutes from the main tourist areas of the south of the island. Given the time required to get here, many visitors include Candi Tebing Gunung Kawi on a guided day tour of attractions in the central regions of Bali. The price for admission is 50000IDR, (about $3.50USD or $5.00AUD). Opening hours are 8 am – 6 pm, seven days a week.
As this is a sacred Balinese temple still used for worship and celebrations to this day, proper clothing must be worn by anyone attending. Sarongs, which cover your knees, are available for rent at the entrance to Gunung Kawi for this purpose or available to buy from the various stalls near the ticket booth. A quick tip! Buy yourself a sarong when you arrive in Bali. These are useful not only for visiting temples, but to stop yourself from burning your bare legs on hot scooter seats! Your own sarong will also likely be much more hygienically clean than the ones for hire at the various attractions around Bali.
The Walk Down to Gunung Kawi
Located at the bottom of a steep valley on the banks of the Pakerisan river, the walk down to Gunung Kawi offers stunning views and scenery. With views through the tropical palm trees, overlooking lush green rice fields in the valley below, photo opportunities abound. There are Instagram spots, including swings and ‘nests’ to take photos to impress your friends back home if that’s your thing. Though due to the covid downturn, these attractions are currently closed.
The Only Way is Up!
Do yourself a favour, and make sure you take the time to enjoy the scenery on your walk down. Because on the return trip, you may not feel quite the same way about the scenery. Why you may ask? With the temple being situated at the bottom of a deep valley, the only way down is, well, down. There are many, many, steps. We didn’t count them however we have heard, and don’t doubt the accuracy of the claims, that there are in excess of 300 steps. And there is no way to avoid them. So please keep this in mind if you are wanting to visit Gunung Kawi. And please remember, going down is only half of the challenge!
Once down, you have to return back up. Fortunately, there are a number of warungs and souvenir shops, all selling cold drinks and providing areas to rest for a few minutes to take a break. Please take advantage of these rest spots and it will ensure that you really get to enjoy the best of this magical place.
The Temple Grounds Of Candi Tebing Gunung Kawi
Having reached the bottom of the steps you cross a bridge over the Pakerisan river before heading towards the first temple complex. This temple is similar to many other temples commonly seen throughout Bali and is still in regular use today. It is common to see groups of worshippers praying here. As such, please remain quiet and respectful of their privacy and do not take photographs of them. Find out more about Balinese culture including How to Celebrate Nyepi Day here. After proceeding through this temple you will come across an ancient temple complex on your right-hand side. This has a number of meditation caves built into the rock walls which were used in generations past by the Buddhist monks who once lived in the area. Shoes must be removed before entering this temple.
Further along, you will come to the first of the ancient Candi’s. It is hard to not be in awe at the sight of these monuments. Each Candi is estimated to be 7 meters in height and hand-carved into the solid rock cliff faces. They are a spectacular sight. With the sacred water pouring from stone urns placed at the foreground of the Candi’s, and the sounds of the Pakerisan River flowing in the background, it provides a truly relaxing and meditative environment.
Back across the river are the second group of Candi’s, every bit as spectacular as the first. The final Candi is situated to the south. This was not well signposted and as there was no staff to ask for directions, we did not get to experience it.
A Few Last Words
Candi Tebing Gunung Kawi should definitely be on your must-visit list for a unique Balinese experience. There is a real sense of Balinese history in visiting this place, one that you are likely to only experience in a handful of places around the world. Yes, there are a lot of steps, and yes it does get hot. So if you do come, please pace yourself and consider the following helpful tips. Consider visiting in the early morning before the weather gets too hot. Allow yourself a good couple of hours to visit the temple, including the journey down and back up the stairs. Bring plenty of drinking water, and take your time on the return journey. Rest up and enjoy a cold drink in the local warungs on the way back. Chat with the locals, and maybe buy yourself a unique handmade souvenir to remind you of your time here.
